Draper HD19 /16BF Drill Press: Difference between revisions
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* Free up the idler | * Free up the idler | ||
** Done but let's keep an eye on it | ** Done but let's keep an eye on it | ||
* Align pulleys - the spindle pulley was 5.7 mm too low with respect to the idler which is not adjustable. The motor pulley is at the same height as the idler | |||
** We found the spindle pulley was too low because the 1:10 spindle taper is undersize vs the taper in the pulley. Also the spindle taper had been marred by extensive lines of centerpunching in an attempt to increase its effective diameter and the pulley had been seated on some hard black mastic, resulting in significant runout and misalignment. | |||
** After cleaning up the pulley taper, grinding down the center-punched high spots on the spindle taper and cleaning it up, the spindle pulley sits so low it fouls the casing. However the increase in diameter required (~1 mm) is too small for a machined tapered sleeve without either machining the pulley or spindle tapers to accommodate one. | |||
** We have decided to try shimming the taper with a sheet shim shaped into a cone. It needs to be ~0.5 mm thick to raise the pulley ~10 mm. If that's too much we can shim the idler mount with a washer and adjust the motor upwards. | |||
* Fit an interlock switch to the belt cover | * Fit an interlock switch to the belt cover | ||
* Fit an E-stop. Those kick-stops are lovely and great to have but I think given the operating environment a side-mounted or front-mounted conventional E-stop would meet the minimum safety needs | * Fit an E-stop. Those kick-stops are lovely and great to have but I think given the operating environment a side-mounted or front-mounted conventional E-stop would meet the minimum safety needs |
Latest revision as of 02:15, 29 August 2024
Manual is File:HD19 16BF.pdf
Some speeds for drilling various Materials
To do before use
- Whilst pretty stable, Mount to floor or wall to stop it tipping and damaging the window or someone
- Level and clean table. An MT3 test bar and square would be ideal, but a bit of ground rod or even a drill would work
- Lubricate the table rack, White lithium grease would be ideal and I'd recommend RML to have some for general use, but molly grease or bearing grease would also work but be a bit messier
- Free up the idler
- Done but let's keep an eye on it
- Align pulleys - the spindle pulley was 5.7 mm too low with respect to the idler which is not adjustable. The motor pulley is at the same height as the idler
- We found the spindle pulley was too low because the 1:10 spindle taper is undersize vs the taper in the pulley. Also the spindle taper had been marred by extensive lines of centerpunching in an attempt to increase its effective diameter and the pulley had been seated on some hard black mastic, resulting in significant runout and misalignment.
- After cleaning up the pulley taper, grinding down the center-punched high spots on the spindle taper and cleaning it up, the spindle pulley sits so low it fouls the casing. However the increase in diameter required (~1 mm) is too small for a machined tapered sleeve without either machining the pulley or spindle tapers to accommodate one.
- We have decided to try shimming the taper with a sheet shim shaped into a cone. It needs to be ~0.5 mm thick to raise the pulley ~10 mm. If that's too much we can shim the idler mount with a washer and adjust the motor upwards.
- Fit an interlock switch to the belt cover
- Fit an E-stop. Those kick-stops are lovely and great to have but I think given the operating environment a side-mounted or front-mounted conventional E-stop would meet the minimum safety needs
- We need to get a tacho on it and create a table of allowed belt configurations and speeds. PaulE has bought one.
Note: This tool is kindly on long term loan from John Temple, please check with Andy before modifying to any extent.
NB I've asked Jon about the estop and interlock and am awaiting an answer so this work isn't to proceed yet.